Maralinga – a barren stretch of land in South Australia’s remote western desert is home to a former British nuclear test site now returned to its traditional owners, the Maralinga Tjarutja. You’ll find dusty roads, and ageing bitumen, surrounded by red desert earth dotted with old communication lines, ancient waterholes, waste burial pits and shards of twisted metal. Tour remains of the military village and airfield or stand in awe of ground zero, a disturbingly large test area, created by seven nuclear bomb detonations. Be surrounded by Indigenous, Australian and British atomic history only five hours drive from Ceduna or day trip with Chinta Air.